Tuesday, October 26, 2021

Paris 2021 Day Fifteen

We were up and ready by 5:30, slicked up the flat, moved our luggage down a couple of bags at a time in the tiny elevator, and by 7:00 we were loading luggage into a van that Annie scheduled. It was a good ride in the dark and rainy morning to Paris Charles de Gaulle  airport for our 10:30 A.M. flight to JFK in New York. Terminal 2 is huge and without help from poorly designed signage, we eventually found Delta check-in. Security went well and we moved through airport shopping into the departure concourse. 

It turned out that our gate was on the lower level below the main concourse. So we knew immediately that we would be shuttled to our plane. As departure time approached the place was slammed. They called a gate change for a Dehli flight and things thinned out a bit. When it was time to depart, there was an announcement that we would be delayed because of a tire change on our waiting plane. As time marched forward, they announced that one tire was changed but they were waiting for another to arrive. With the passage of even more time we wondered if the tire was coming from Toulouse! 

Finally after a three-hour delay, the tire installation was finished and we were invited to board the busses, in no particular order. We were Comfort+ and should have been in the first boarding group. Oh well. Our seats were reserved and there was room in overhead bins for Kris's bag, so no worries. The shuttle bus was crammed with people like the Métro at rush hour. The 10 minute journey took to us a remote spot at the back of some forgotten part of a terminal. We were greeted there by the sight of our plane parked next to a tall cement block with a gantry that connected it to the plane. There was no elevator, so all the passengers climbed up four flights of stairs to plane level. Apparently, Delta is persona non grata at CDG. 

Finally seated on the plane with insufficient ventilation for sweaty stair climbers, who had arrived slowly one shuttle at a time, we waited for push back, but learned that they were still loading freight because the tire change had precluded loading earlier. Finally after close to an hour wait on the tarmac we taxied for miles and were allowed to take off. The flight itself was fine, with a really nice boeuf bourguignon for lunch and lots of movies. We had, of course, missed our connecting flight to SLC and so Delta rescheduled us on to a later flight in coach. Border control and security went fine (Global Entry was dreamy), but JFK is a sucky airport and we had to take a train and walk to another airport that was poorly marked and difficult to find. We arrived at the gate just in time to board and take our tight little economy seats next to folks we didn't know. The last few hours into SLC after such a long day were tortuous: containing extreme gas, twitchy legs, and no room to move!

It was joy to reach the new SLC! Many have complained about the new airport, but let me tell you, it is dreamy by any standard, not just by comparison with CDG and JFK. We decided that when we travel to Paris again, we will fly to London and take Eurostar to the heart of Paris from the heart of London. No more CDG!

Sweet Millie picked us up and delivered us to our clean home (thank you Meags and Phil!) and bed after a 25-hour travel day. As I told Phillip when I texted him, this was better than covered wagon travel, but not great. 

Kris with a fistful of papers and documents required 
mostly because of COVID

Shuttle to the remote gate

Climbing up to the gate, that's SKT and AW

View of a similar bunker and a shuttle from the plane

I told Kris, the part I dread most about travel is travel: getting there and getting home is torture. But, at the end of the day, it's worth it. It reminds me of the Timp Hike. When I was done, I swore I would never hike it again, but by the next year, I was ready to climb. So, all being well, we will hit the road again when we rebuild our travel fund.

Now back to real life.

OXO

D.

Paris 2021 Day Fourteen

On our last Sunday in Paris, I went early to the boulangerie for one last baguette, croissants, and a kouign amann. This ritual is one of my favorite things about being in Paris. Later in the morning we met Kreg, Dorothy,  and her two "adopted" nieces, Eliza and Sydney, at the Marché Monge. We selected some beautiful things for a delicious charcuterie-spread lunch. Dorothy is a great lover of pâstisserie, so she treated us to a fabulous raspberry gâteau from Anthony Bosson. It was a very pleasant and tasty get together. Shortly after their departure, Lucy Jane popped in for the afternoon and evening. She found a wonderful little bistro on the Rue Mouffetard where we had a delicious supper. It was so much fun to be with Lucy during our two weeks, and it was hard to say goodbye. We packed and went to bed to ready for an early departure.

Incredibly beautiful produce from these
kind and friendly folks

These guys sell the best 
pâté de campagne I have ever eaten

Kris, Dorothy, Kreg, SKT, and Annie at
the Sunday Marché Monge

The Rue Mouffetard on a beautiful Paris day

Dorothy has a gâteau in that brown bag

Clockwise: KBT, SKT, cousin Kreg Calder, AW, 
Dorothy, Eliza, and Sydney at our flat for lunch

LJ and Grammy

Bien sur! Lu and PopPop, ce sont des parisiens

Le Vieux Bistro on the Rue Mouffetard

Steak au poivre: Kris and Luisa

Steak tartare: Annie

Soupe á l'oignon: moi

Cozy Le Vieux Bistro

I will miss this every evening: flan à la vanille:
death by custard pie

We are certainly not 50 anymore, but this was still such a delightful trip, even at a reduced pace. It was made even more memorable by having Lucy join us often. One last trip post to follow.

OXO

D.

Saturday, October 23, 2021

Paris 2021 Day Thirteen

This was the day to get our COVID tests for our upcoming reentry into the US. Lucy arrived in time to join us in our errands near the flat. While we waited for the results from the pharmacy, we walked to the Place du Pantheon, where several wedding parties were gathered for Saturday weddings at the Mairie du 5e Arrondissement. With a negative test logged into a wallet on my phone, we headed to the Jardin du Luxembourg to wait for Lucy's GW friend, Abi, to arrive. We made our way to Monoprix on the Boulevard Sainte-Michel to buy some treats to pack. Abi came up short trying to get a Pass Sanitaire, so we ate takeaway from the Rue Mouffetard instead of at a restaurant.

The Pantheon looms large over the neighborhood

Place de l'Estrapade

A glimpse of the Pantheon

Deux Chevaux vert jaunâtre

Grammy and Lu

So what little girl doesn't love a twirly skirt?

Chrysanthèmes, aussi vert jaunâtre

Fontaine Médicis

Tour Montparnasse: the only skyscraper ever built
in the heart of Paris

Abi, just arrived from Ireland

Odéon-Théâtre de l'Europe, one of six national theaters

Sorbonne Chapel

Street food at home because no Pass Sanitaire (Abi finally got it
later that afternoon)
The first star of evening from my window seat

That's the end of the day, but not quite the end of the adventure.

OXO

D.

Friday, October 22, 2021

Paris 2021 Day Twelve

Lucy Jane joined us for a trip to town to see the Grands Magasins, the large department stores for which Paris is famous. We stopped first to see the newly restored and reopened Samaritaine, a complex of parts from different eras. The Art-Nouveau portion is spectacular, with engineering reminiscent of the Tour Eiffel. Every item in the store is very posh and expensive, but never mind; we were there to see the architecture. We popped up next at Galeries Lafayette. The massive glass dome is always impressive and there is an excellent view east, south, and west across Paris from the La Terrasse on the roof. Lucy and I parted company with Kris and traveled to the Place Bastille where we began our walk along the Coulée Vert, the original park on an abandoned elevated railway, created years before they even thought of it in New York City. We had dinner with Lucy and stopped at the patisserie for dessert

Lucy can do homework standing on the Métro

Part of the original façade, restored

Fantastical Art-Nouveau ironwork

Flourishes in iron

Original glory, maybe even better

Art-Nouveau murals

Iron and mosaic

There were several artists at work

Balconies on each level

Glass dome at Galeries Lafayette

From La Terrasse

Place de la Bastille

Lucy Jane on the Coulée Vert

Coulée Vert

Jardin de Rueilly - Paul Pernin

View into the 12th Arrondissement

Mairie du 12m

Dîner sur la place

That it for today.

OXO 

D.