Tuesday, April 26, 2011

Fredericksburg

Today, Tuesday, 26 April, we spent the day in and around Fredericksburg, VA, home to some important Civil-War sites as well as some significant George-Washington-related sites. We had to be home by 4:00 P.M. to meet the school bus, which we did in just the nick of time: Rob opened the garage door from half a block away as Lucy arrived at in the front yard.

We visited the site of the Battle of Fredericksburg south-west above the city along Sunken Road, an important route from Richmond to Washington. Above the road is a higher rise called Marye's Heights. From these two positions Lee's army was able to repel Burnside's Union troop's attack: the Confederates were so well protected that it was like shooting fish in a barrel as the Union soldiers stormed the open ground below.

The girlies on the Sunken Road with the Innis House behind

The bullet-riddled interior wall of the Innis House

Reading the marker on Marye's Heights

The view over Fredericksburg from Marye's Heights

In Fredericksburg, we visited Kenmore House (1775), built by Fielding Lewis and his wife, Betty Washington Lewis, George Washington's sister. It is wonderfully restored and lovingly cared for, though without furniture. The house is Late-Georgian, though the exterior is much more in the Early-Georgian style. The plaster work on the ceilings and overmantles is some of the finest in America. George Washington purchased a house for his mother just a two blocks to the east so she could be near her daughter. Washington was raised just across the Rappahannock River at Ferry Farm, so Fredericksburg was his home town.

Kenmore House in Fredericksburg

Staircase in the entry at Kenmore

Plasterwork on an overmantle at Kenmore

We crossed the river to visit Chatham, what would have been a beautiful Late-Georgian house built in 1772 by William Fitzhugh, a wealthy slave holder who developed a successful plantation on the tall rise across the Rappahannock from Fredericksburg. The house has a convoluted history. It was abandoned during the Civil War when it was used as Union Headquarters and as a hospital after the Battle of Fredericksburg; it was essentially trashed. Ironically, the Union cannons positioned at Chatham had a range of 3/4 of a mile and the Sunken Road and Marye's Heights were visible in the distance one mile away. With the right cannons, the Union could have destroyed the Confederate stronghold and the Battle of Fredericksburg would have been quite different.

The house eventully belonged to a couple of wealthy 20th-century families who made terrible changes and awful restorations. It was willed to the National Park Service in 1975. It needs a group of caring women (like Kenmore House) who will love it, restore it, and care for it. Now, though it is important historically (Washington, Jefferson, Lincoln, Robert E. Lee, and Clara Barton were all there) and in solid condition, it is a design disaster and looks as if it were decorated by Pat Nixon or Betty Ford.

Chatham

The door trim is a 20th-century addition

How Chatham might have looked before the Battle of Fredericksburg

The view over the Rappahannock and Fredericksburg from Chatham --
the highest point in the distance is Marye's Heights,
1/4 mile beyond the range of the Union cannons at Chatham

Our final visit was to the Chancellorsville battle site where the North and South clashed in a thick tangle of woods. The battle was Lee's greatest victory, but is best known because here in the forest, Stonewall Jackson was wounded by friendly fire, dying a week later from pneumonia related to his wounds.

Kris, Clara, Anna, and Rob where Stonewall Jackson
was fatally wounded at Chancellorsville

Another beautiful, though warmish, day with superb management by Rob and Anna.

That's all for now.

OXO

D.

District of Columbia

Yesterday, Monday, 25 April, was the last day of spring break for the kids, so we all piled in the van and headed north to the District of Columbia for a full day of adventure. We parked at Union Station and walked to the Capitol and the Library of Congress. The Library is a richly ornate Beaux-Arts building opened in 1897. After lunch in a park behind the Capitol, we visited the National Botanical Garden -- shades of Kew Gardens on a smaller scale. A potty and drink stop at the National Museum of the American Indian was followed by a tour of the National Gallery. I had forgotten what a great collection they have. The final museum visit of the day was to the National Museum of American History filled with all kinds of quirky stuff. We proceeded to the monuments: Washington, WWII, Lincoln, and Viet Nam. The trip home was remarkably smooth with light traffic. We had a very good supper in Manassas at a strip-mall Peruvian restaurant. The ceviche was delicious!

The azaleas are now in bloom everywhere here --
these at the Fauquier library on the way out of town

Union Station: still a station but now with shopping and eating

Capitol dome

East side of the Capitol

Library of Congress

Picnic in the park

View from the top of the greenhouse

Beautiful orchids

The wonderful Indian Museum

Waiting to start our march through the National Gallery

Andrea della Robbia's
Italian Renaissance plaques

Michelle Obama's inauguration gown at
the History Museum

Julia Child's kitchen

A snatch of a view of the White House from the
Washington Monument

The new WWII Monument

The crew at rest, more or less

Kris's honored her dad at the memorial so we were
surprised to see Dale Taylor's name

The greatest American president

The reflecting pool is undergoing
long-needed refurbishment


Anna and Anders at the Lincoln Memorial

What a great day we had. Once again, thanks to Anna and Rob for the great management from planning, lunch making, driving, parking, weather, traffic, etc. It was all spectacular!

That's all for now.

OXO

D.

Monday, April 25, 2011

Easter in Warrenton

Easter in Warrenton was just as it should be with egg hunts, church, dinner, and plenty of good cheer. There was lamb with mint sauce as well as ham for Courtney and Rob who have an allergy-diet-induced lamb phobia. Church was nice with a great choir number. In the evening we went to Rady Park for some post-dinner exercise. It was a good day with only one hick up: an attack in the back yard by a redneck neighbor's pit bull (nobody was harmed, but Anna lost control of her refined Christian language).

Egg hunters

Success!

The Easter grouping, pre-pit-bull

Kristine's cool new necklace from Harper's Ferry,
a present from Anna

Courtney caught us in Sunday-afternoon mode

Lamb, spuds, gravy, mint sauce, asparagus, and rolls

Rady Park at dusk
(Photo by Courtney)

A pleasant evening walk
(Photo by Courtney)

Nice day, but that's all for now.

OXO

D.

Sunday, April 24, 2011

Harper's Ferry and Antietam

Yesterday, 23 April, we visited Harper's Ferry and the Antietam Civil-War battlefield. The weather was cooperative and we had a wonderful day. The drive through the Shenandoah Mountains from Warrenton to Harper's Ferry in West Virginia was spectacular with low clouds hovering over the misty emerald-green hills and patches of forest. We made a short stop at Millwood, a charming little village on a creek with a picturesque mill.

Harper's Ferry is a delightful historic town situated at the confluence of the Potomac and Shenandoah Rivers, and now part of the National Park system. The setting is (for here) mountainous and the natural setting is as impressive as the village itself. The town was an important industrial-revolution site because of the ample water power available for mills of various sorts. It was also an essential railroad and canal stop. During the civil war Harper's Ferry was the site of abolitionist John Brown's failed 1859 attempt at liberating slaves and seizing arms. Though a failure, the attempt drew the attention of the nation to the moral issue of slavery and edged the country even closer to civil war.

The 12-hour Battle of Antietam, in Maryland, is probably best known for the scale of its carnage: 23,000 casualties. Here General Lee made his first incursion into the north in an attempt to draw the Army of the Potomac away from Washington D.C. just a few miles to the south. Reluctant Union General McClellan, at Lincoln's insistence, led the battle and fought the Confederate forces to a draw. The draw, however, was ultimately a game changer because Lee withdrew from the north, Union momentum (after a string of previous defeats) increased, and France and England decided against recognition of the Confederate States, all of which changed the direction of the war. The pity is that McClellan was such a noodle: if he had pursued Lee as Lincoln directed, the war would have been significantly shorter, but, alas, McClellan was a reluctant noodle!

The mill at Millwood

The confluence of the Shenandoah and the Potomac

Lock #33 on the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal (now
obviously dry) beside the Shenandoah River

Harper's Ferry

Buildings on Shenandoah Street

Houses perched above High Street

The sites and smells along High Street reminded me of the Lake
District in England, and the slate construction
added to the impression

The gang in front of Saint Peter's Catholic Church

Monkeys at St. John's Episcopal Church ruins
on the cliffs above Harper's Ferry

The view of the Potomac water passage from the rock where
Thomas Jefferson enjoyed the most "stupendous" view in America --
Anna wryly said he had obviously never been west

Lunch on the High Street

Antietam National Battle Field

The Sunken Road or Bloody Lane
(photo by Courtney)

The Hastings on the Bloody Lane Trail

Dying Easter eggs

This was a great day out. The evening was filled with pulled pork, homemade wheat rolls, slaw, and collard greens, followed by lots of egg dying. Thanks to Anna and Rob for more great management.

That's all for now.

OXO

D.